If Parmesan is the king of cheese, Époisses is the cultural attaché. It’s smelly in a way that makes you proud to like it. It’s also red-wine compatible and awesome on a piece of steak. A washed-rind cheese, Époisses is made from milk from Burgundian cows and washed with the local marc de Bourgogne. It is crucial that you buy a good Époisses, and, in fact, only one or two brands make it to the United States and Canada. Sniffit before buying, and avoid one with a horse urine–window cleaner smell. Remember, too, warming up the cheese only amplifies the aroma. Sometimes Gilles Jourdenais at Fromagerie Atwater gets in tiny individual Époisses, which we try to use whenever possible. This dish, which combines the cheese with shallots, used to be the classic Joe Beef drunk staff meal at 4 A.M. Eat it with toasted bread, a few rosettes of mâche, or on top of steak.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4

　　1 1/2 cups (375 ml) dry red wine

　　4 large French shallots, finely chopped

　　1 sprig thyme

　　1/4 teaspoon pepper

　　Pinch of sugar

　　2 tablespoons hazelnut oil

　　7 ounces (200 g) Époisses cheese

　　1/4 cup (40 g) whole hazelnuts, toasted

　　4 slices pain levain, toasted

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). In a small nonreactive saucepan, combine the wine, shallots, thyme, pepper, and sugar. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat until the wine is reduced by half. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Stir in the hazelnut oil.

　　

Step 2

Place the cheese in a small baking dish that you’re proud to bring to the table, and cover it with the shallot mixture. Bake for 4 to 5 minutes, or until slightly melted. Serve with the hazelnuts and toast.

　　

NOTE

Step 3

When the Époisses comes out of the oven, you can flambé it with 1 tablespoon marc or a good brandy. And if you do, be careful. It is your responsibility and not ours if your date’s rayon dress catches fire.

　　Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.