Poached veal tongue is one of the ingredients in the classical Italian dish bollito misto, boiled mixed meats. It is one of my favorite dishes, but even without the other four or five meats I enjoy the poached tongue. The brining somewhat cures the meat and makes it retain the lively pinkish color throughout.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　

For Brining

1/4 cup kosher salt

　　2 quarts water

　　

For Poaching

2 bay leaves

　　2 1/2 quarts water

　　2 celery stalks

　　1 carrot

　　1 medium onion

　　1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1 fresh veal tongue, about 1 1/2 pounds

　　

For Serving

Grated fresh horseradish (about 2 teaspoons per serving)

　　Salmoriglio (page 366; optional)

　　Salsa Verde (page 362; optional)

　　

Potato, Parsnip, and Scallion Mash

2 medium russet baking potatoes (1 1/2 pounds)

　　6 medium parsnips, peeled and trimmed (1 1/2 pounds)

　　4 tablespoons butter

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　Two 1/4-pound bunches scallions, finely chopped (1 cup)

　　(serves 4 to 6)

　　

Recommended Equipment

A potato masher or ricer

　　

Step 1

To brine the tongue, mix the salt with the water in a large bowl and submerge the tongue in it. Refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.

　　

Step 2

Bring the ingredients for the poaching liquid to a boil in a pot large enough to accommodate the tongue later, and let boil vigorously for 20 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Remove the tongue from the brine, and lower it into the boiling broth. Cook, partially covered, at a lively simmer for 1 1/4 hours, then turn off the heat and leave the tongue submerged in the hot liquid for at least 1/2 hour. While the tongue is resting, get the potatoes and parsnips going (recipe follows).

　　

Step 4

Fish the tongue out of the broth, and as soon as it is cool enough to handle, remove the peel (the warmer the tongue, the easier that will be). Following the photographs, start at the butt end to remove the peel; once you have gotten started, it should come off quite easily in big pieces. Trim away any gristle and fat at the butt end, and when ready to serve, cut into slices.

　　

Step 5

Serve the tongue warm with the potato, parsnip, and scallion mash and at least one of the recommended condiments. The grated horseradish should be sprinkled on while the tongue is still warm, to infuse the slices with its sharp flavor. Leftover tongue is delicious cold, with the suggested sauces or others in this chapter. It makes a great sandwich with some mustard.

　　

Potato, Parsnip, and Scallion Mash

Step 6

Peel the baking potatoes, cut them in half, and submerge them in a pan of cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 20 minutes, then add the parsnips and cook another 20 minutes, until both are tender. If the parsnips are getting too soft, fish them out of the pot with a wire sieve. When both the potatoes and parsnips are done, put them through a ricer, or strain and mash them in a bowl, with the butter and salt. Fold in the scallions. If the mash has to wait a little while before being served, put the bowl in a skillet with a small amount of boiling water, and simmer to keep warm.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.