In late spring, when California asparagus are still available and the Cakebread garden is yielding the year’s first onions, Brian makes this delicate pizza bianca (a “white pizza,” or pizza without tomato sauce). The fresh-dug onions haven’t been cured yet, so they don’t have papery skins, and their flavor is mild. Many supermarkets sell “spring onions” that look like thick scallions with a bulbous root end. They would work in this recipe, as would leeks or even cured yellow onions, but uncured onions have the most delicate taste. Choose a fresh ricotta without pectin or other stabilizers. The Bellwether Farms ricotta from neighboring Sonoma County is our favorite.

　　

Ingredients

makes four 8-inch pizzas

　　1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　6 cups thinly sliced spring onions or yellow onions

　　Kosher salt

　　1 pound asparagus

　　1 pound whole-milk ricotta cheese

　　Freshly ground white pepper

　　Pizza dough (page 192)

　　Cornmeal or durum flour for dusting

　　4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

　　20 paper-thin slices (4 to 5 ounces) pancetta, in coiled rounds

　　

Step 1

Heat a large, wide-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil, onions, and a large pinch of salt. Cook until the onions are soft, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and lowering the heat if needed to keep them from browning. Let cool.

　　

Step 2

Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus. Slice the trimmed spears on the diagonal about 1/4 inch thick.

　　

Step 3

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and cook until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to chill quickly. Pat dry.

　　

Step 4

Season the ricotta with salt and white pepper.

　　

Step 5

At least 45 minutes before baking, put a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to its highest setting (500°F to 550°F).

　　

Step 6

With lightly floured fingers, flatten a ball of pizza dough into a round on a lightly floured work surface. Pick up the round with both hands and, grasping the round by an edge, rotate the dough clockwise between your fingertips, always holding it by the edge. As you rotate the dough, stretch it into an 8-inch circle; the dough will also stretch and lengthen from its own weight. Alternatively, drape the flattened round over your lightly floured knuckles and rotate the dough, moving your knuckles slightly farther apart, until the round stretches into an 8-inch circle.

　　

Step 7

Place on a pizza peel lightly dusted with cornmeal or durum flour. Work quickly now to prevent sticking.

　　

Step 8

Using one-quarter of the onion mixture, spread it evenly over the surface of the dough. Scatter asparagus over the onions, using one-quarter of the total. Dollop one-quarter (4 ounces) of the ricotta on the pizza in 7 to 8 mounds. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon Parmesan. Arrange 5 pancetta slices, still coiled in rounds, on top, spacing them evenly.

　　

Step 9

Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone and bake until the crust is brown and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven. Cut into slices and serve hot. Repeat with the remaining three balls of dough and the remaining topping.

　　

Step 10

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another lean and refreshing white wine.

　　The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook