The procedure for basic pilaf—and here I’m focusing on the Middle Eastern rather than the Indian variety—is much simpler than that for risotto but truly no less rewarding. And like risotto’s, its technique can lead you to many different dishes; note the variations, which are just a fraction of what you can do. Long-grain rice (basmati is best) is the one to use here. Leftover pilaf can be successfully reheated in a microwave; no kidding. Just add a tiny bit of water first.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter or extra virgin olive oil, or less if you must

　　1 medium onion, chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 1/4 cups long-grain rice

　　1 cup cored and chopped tomato (canned is fine; use the juice), optional

　　1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock, preferably homemade (page 160 or 162)

　　1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

　　2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

　　

Step 1

Put the butter or oil in a large deep skillet with a lid and place over medium heat. Add the onion and a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is glossy and begins to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

　　

Step 2

Add the tomato if you choose to and stir for a minute; add the stock (the smaller amount if you used tomato) and stir. Raise the heat and bring the mixture to a boil; cook for a minute or two, then reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Turn the heat to the absolute minimum (if you have an electric stove, turn the heat off and let the pan sit on the burner) and let rest for another 15 to 30 minutes, until the rice is tender. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice and serve.

　　

Pilaf with Currants and Pine Nuts

Step 3

Along with the rice, add 1/4 cup currants (or raisins), 2 tablespoons pine nuts, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon.

　　

Pilaf with Chickpeas or Peas

Step 4

Just before adding the stock, stir in 1 cup cooked chickpeas or raw green peas (frozen are okay, and you need not defrost first).

　　

Golden Pilaf

Step 5

Before adding the stock, warm it with a large pinch (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon) of saffron threads.

　　

Vermicelli Pilaf

Step 6

I love this: Sauté about 1/2 cup vermicelli, broken into 1- or 2-inch lengths, along with the rice. Use the larger amount of stock.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.