Use small organic pumpkins or squashes. Before peeling, taste their skins. If they are very tender, they can be left on. Pickled pumpkin is good served with crispy roast pork seasoned with five-spice or on its own as part of a pickle plate.

Ingredients

　　2 cups rice vinegar

　　3/4 cup distilled white vinegar

　　3/4 cup mirin

　　5 fresh Thai chiles, split in half lengthwise

　　1 small piece of ginger, unpeeled, thinly sliced

　　6 garlic cloves

　　10 white peppercorns

　　1 1/4 cups sugar

　　1/4 cup kosher salt

　　3 pounds pumpkin, cut into thin moons or chunks

　　Combine 2 cups water, the vinegars, mirin, chiles, ginger, garlic, peppercorns, sugar, and salt in a large nonreactive pot and bring to a simmer. When the sugar is dissolved, add the pumpkin and cook gently, stirring and checking frequently, until it is just slightly tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the pumpkin, reserving the liquid. Let cool completely before combining. Store in the refrigerator.

　　Cooking in the Moment