Season: September to November: A good pickled onion is perhaps the doyen of the preserves cupboard–but how do you like yours? Crisp or soft, sweet or sour, mildly spiced or chile hot? The beauty of this recipe is that it can be used to make your onions (or shallots) just the way you like them. I like mine sweet, so I use honey in this recipe, but you could dispense with honey or sugar altogether if you like a really sharp pickle. I also go for cider vinegar, rather than the more traditional malt, because the flavor is less aggressive. The blend of spices used here suits me nicely, but you could also use coriander, cumin, or celery seeds–or any other spice you fancy. If you want crisp onions, use cold vinegar; if you like them soft, heat the vinegar first.

　　

Ingredients

makes one 24-ounce jar

　　2 1/4 pounds small pickling onions

　　3 tablespoons fine salt

　　2 1/2 cups vinegar (cider, malt, or wine)

　　7 tablespoons honey, or 3/4 cup sugar

　　1/2 ounce fresh ginger, lightly bruised

　　2 teaspoons allspice berries

　　2 or 3 mace blades

　　2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

　　1 teaspoon black or white peppercorns

　　1 cinnamon stick

　　2 dried chiles (optional)

　　2 bay leaves

　　

Step 1

Using scissors, snip the top and the rooty bottom off the onions. Place in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Count steadily to 20 (no more). Drain the onions and plunge into cold water. You will find the skins will peel off easily.

　　

Step 2

Put the peeled onions into a shallow dish. Sprinkle with the salt, cover, and let stand overnight. Meanwhile, pour the vinegar into a pan and add the honey or sugar, ginger, and spices (not the bay leaves). Cover and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow to infuse overnight.

　　

Step 3

Strain the spiced vinegar. Rinse the onions in very cold water, then drain and pack into a sterilized jar (see p. 21), adding the bay leaves as you go. Pour in the vinegar (reheating it first if you want softer onions) and seal with a vinegar-proof lid (see p. 22). Let mature for 6 to 8 weeks before using. Use within 1 year.

　　

VARIATION

Step 4

Use shallots instead of onions and 1 1/4 cups each of red wine vinegar and white wine vinegar. Prepare as above, then pack the shallots into the jar along with 1 ounce of sliced fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon of coriander seeds, and a couple of fresh mint sprigs.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.