Alsace is the only part of France with a tradition of France with a tradition of both pork and beef charcuterie. When I asked a butcher in Strasbourg about pickelfleisch (corned beef ) and pickled tongue, he paused to think a minute. Yes, he told me, both are eaten primarily by Jewish clientele. Of that charcuterie, pickelfleisch is the crown prince. Basically corned beef cured for eight to ten days with salt, sugar, spices, and saltpeter and then baked or boiled, it is more garlicky, with more varied spices, than that in America. Try making your own corned beef. It is great fun. Eat it as is or in a choucroute garni (sauerkraut dressed with meat and potatoes).

　　

Ingredients

8 servings

　　One 4-to-5-pound brisket of beef

　　2 onions, coarsely chopped

　　1 teaspoon peppercorns

　　2 teaspoons powdered ginger

　　1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

　　2 bay leaves, crumbled

　　1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg

　　1/8 teaspoon hot paprika

　　7 cloves garlic, minced

　　6 tablespoons coarse kosher salt

　　3 tablespoons brown sugar

　　1 tablespoon saltpeter (optional)

　　1 carrot, peeled and chopped

　　1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped

　　Garnish: Mustard and horseradish

　　

Step 1

Wash and remove most of the fat from the brisket. Mix together one of the chopped onions, the peppercorns, ginger, cloves, bay leaves, nutmeg, paprika, and garlic in a small bowl.

　　

Step 2

Bring 1 cup water to a boil. Dissolve the salt, sugar, and, if using, the saltpeter for coloring, in it. Cool, putting a few ice cubes in the water, and mix with half the mixed spices.

　　

Step 3

Rub the other half of the spices into the meat. Carefully move the meat to a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag, then pour on the liquid, close, and place in a 9-by-13-inch pan. Place two weights on top of the meat, and refrigerate for 10 days, turning every 2 days.

　　

Step 4

After 10 days, remove from the brine and rinse well under cold water. Put the brisket in a pot just large enough to hold the meat. Add the remaining onion, the carrot, and the celery, and cover with water by 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil, and simmer slowly, covered, for about 3 hours, or until the meat is tender. Remove from the heat, cool, slice thin, and place on a platter. Serve with mustard and horseradish.

　　Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous