While pho originated in the north of Vietnam, it has become a national dish. Carts and small shops sell it everywhere, usually for breakfast (since I’m a big fan of savory breakfasts, this was ideal for me). The clear, fragrant beef broth is the flavorful base of this dish, and the sliced sirloin, noodles, and condiments provide the texture. (The sirloin must be sliced as thinly as possible, because it cooks in the serving bowl; freeze it for 30 minutes or so to facilitate thin slicing.) Information on Thai fish sauce—nam pla—is on page 500. Rice vermicelli (mai fun) is available at most supermarkets and all Chinese markets, and is sometimes called “rice stick.”

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 to 8 servings

　　10 star anise

　　5 peppercorns

　　5 cloves

　　1 cinnamon stick

　　4 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly smashed

　　1 small onion, roughly chopped

　　One 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

　　4 pounds oxtail or beef bones

　　2 pounds boneless chuck, cut into a few pieces

　　1/4 cup nam pla, or more to taste

　　1 tablespoon sugar, or more to taste

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 pound dried rice vermicelli

　　1 pound lean sirloin, thinly sliced across the grain

　　1 cup fresh bean sprouts, rinsed

　　10 fresh cilantro sprigs

　　10 fresh basil (preferably Thai) or mint sprigs

　　2 fresh chiles, preferably Thai, stemmed, seeded, and minced

　　2 scallions, trimmed and chopped

　　2 limes, cut into wedges

　　

Step 1

Set a large flameproof casserole or stockpot over medium heat. Add the star anise, peppercorns, cloves, and cinnamon stick and toast until fragrant, about 1 minute; scoop out and set aside for the moment. Add the garlic, onion, and ginger and char, about 5 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Add the oxtail or beef bones, chuck, and reserved spices. Add water to cover and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the chuck is tender, at least an hour. Remove, shred, and set it aside. Simmer the broth for a total of about 3 hours, then add the nam pla, sugar, salt, and pepper, adding more of each to taste. At some point during this period, cook the rice noodles in boiling salted water until tender, just a few minutes. Strain, rinse in cold water, and set aside.

　　

Step 3

When the broth is done, strain and reheat until it’s just about boiling. Divide the noodles, sirloin, and reserved shredded meat among the serving bowls and then pour in the broth. Garnish with the bean sprouts, cilantro, basil, chiles, and scallions and serve, squeezing lime juice over all.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.