Whaling and swordfishing have been the tempestuous business of Bagnara for three thousand years. Wedged as the port is twixt great rocks and the Mar Tirreno at the savage hem of the Aspromonte, it forms a fittingly folkloric tableau for the lumbering black ships trudging out for the hunt. A tower, higher than the masts, is the tight, trembly perch from which one man sights the fish. As did the Greeks from whom they are descended, the harpooners tramp out onto walkways hinged a hundred feet out from the ship over the sea, spears at the ready, to wait for the fish. Once the ships are sighted from the lighthouse, the fishermen’s wives gather on the beach with carts and wagons, transport to take the fish to market. Sometimes, fires are laid right there by the water, one fish whacked into trenchers and roasted, a barrel of wine propped against the rocks, the unfolding of an old ceremony. One fishes, one builds a fire, one eats his supper.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　3 pounds swordfish, cut into 1/3- to 1/2-pound steaks

　　2 cups good red wine

　　1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　10 bay leaves, crushed

　　2 small, dried red chile peppers, crushed, or 1/2 to 2/3 teaspoon dried chile flakes

　　Fine sea salt

　　Freshly cracked pepper

　　Whole branches of bay or rosemary

　　

Step 1

Place the fish in a noncorrosive bowl and pour over the wine, turning the steaks so that each of them is wet. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and permit the fish to rest in the wine for 1 hour, turning it several times.

　　

Step 2

In a small saucepan over a medium flame, heat the oil nearly to a simmer and add the crushed bay leaves and the chile peppers. Remove the pan from the flame, cover it, and permit the oil to absorb the seasonings while the fish rests in the wine.

　　

Step 3

Build a wood fire.

　　

Step 4

Remove the fish from its bath, drying it on absorbent paper towels. Strain the oil and massage both sides of the fish with 1/2 cup of it. Sprinkle sea salt and freshly cracked pepper over the steaks. Pound the branches of bay or rosemary with a mallet to release their fragrant oils.

　　

Step 5

Lay the steaks on a grill over red/white-hot embers and cover them with the pounded branches. Char the steaks for 45 seconds to 1 minute—30 seconds will be sufficient if your fire is hot enough—removing the branches, turning the steaks, replacing the branches, and charring their other sides.

　　

Step 6

Rewarm the remaining 1/2 cup of oil and pour it over a large, shallow plate. Lay the charred steaks in the oil so their hot flesh can absorb it.

　　

Step 7

Present the steaks then, still warm, or left to cool a bit if your hunger can abide the wait. You need only honest bread and wine and the warmth of the fire.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy