This version of a classic Italian pasta dish is prepared with prosciutto, as was often done in Italian-American restaurants. For a more traditional version, substitute 6 ounces of guanciale (cured pork-cheek bacon) or regular bacon cut into 1/4-inch strips for the prosciutto. Cook the guanciale or bacon in the skillet with the olive oil before adding the onion. Cook until lightly browned but still soft, about 4 minutes for the guanciale or 2 minutes for the bacon. Then add the onion and continue with the recipe as below.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 servings

　　Salt

　　One 35-ounce can whole Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

　　1 pound perciatelli pasta

　　1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices (about 1 1/2 cups)

　　2 bay leaves

　　4 ounces imported Italian prosciutto, sliced 1/8 inch thick and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch strips

　　1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper

　　1 cup grated mild Pecorino Romano cheese

　　

Step 1

Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.

　　

Step 2

Drain the tomatoes and reserve the juice. Cut the tomatoes in quarters lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and cores. Stir the perciatelli into the boiling water. Return to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring occasionally, until done, about 12 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and bay leaves and cook until the onion is wilted but still crunchy, about 4 minutes. Add the prosciutto and stir 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, about 1 cup of the reserved liquid, and the crushed red pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat so the sauce is at a lively simmer, and cook until the pasta is done.

　　

Step 4

Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta-cooking liquid, then drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add half the sauce and the remaining olive oil. Stir until the sauce is bubbling and the pasta is coated. If necessary, add as much of the reserved pasta-cooking liquid as needed to make enough sauce to coat the pasta lightly but evenly. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the grated cheese. Transfer the pasta to a heated platter or serving bowls and top with the remaining sauce.

　　Cooks' Note

　　To open plastic packages of long pastas, like perciatelli, spaghetti, linguine, or vermicelli, hold them firmly around the center and give one end of the package a good whack on a firm surface.

　　From Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright © 2001 by A La Carte Communications and Tutti a Tavola, LLC. Published by arrangement with Alfred A. Knopf, an imprint of The Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.Buy the full book from Amazon.