Pepper, made from the small dried berries of a tropical vine native to India, has been the most widely used spice in the world for centuries. Green peppercorns are harvested when not quite ripe, and are most often dried or cured in brine or vinegar. Black peppercorns are picked when ripe, allowed to ferment, and then dried until they shrivel and turn brownish black. White pepper is allowed to ripen more fully on the vine before the black outer husk is removed. The husks are removed in a steady stream of water, so the peppercorns are very white and very clean. To crust a beef filet with a combination of crushed peppercorns is a traditional French cooking technique known as au poivre. Here, the bite of the pepper is tempered by the sharp cognac and fruity golden raisins.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1/2 cup cognac, brandy, or bourbon

　　1/2 cup golden raisins

　　1 teaspoon whole white peppercorns, crushed

　　1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, crushed

　　1 teaspoon whole green peppercorns, crushed

　　1 whole allspice berry, crushed 4 to 6 (6-ounce) boneless rib-eye or tenderloin steaks, (cut about 1 1/4 inches thick)

　　Coarse salt

　　2 tablespoons canola oil

　　1/3 cup beef stock (page 227) or lowfat, reduced-sodium beef broth

　　2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits (optional)

　　

Step 1

To plump the raisins, heat the cognac in a small saucepan over low heat just to simmering. Remove from the heat. Add the raisins and set aside to plump, about 30 minutes.

　　

Step 2

To pan-fry the steak, combine the white, black, and green peppercorns and allspice in a shallow bowl. Season the steaks with salt on both sides and press the peppercorns into one side of the steak.

　　

Step 3

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the steaks, without crowding, pepper side down first, and cook each side for 3 to 5 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the meat to a warm platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.

　　

Step 4

To make the pan sauce, pour off the fat from the skillet. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the raisins and cognac. Return the pan to high heat and bring to a boil. (If you have a gas cooktop especially, watch for flame-ups.) Cook until the mixture is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the beef stock, decrease the heat to medium, and cook until slightly reduced, an additional 2 minutes.

　　

Step 5

To finish the sauce with butter, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter, one piece at a time. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt. No additional pepper is necessary.

　　

Step 6

To serve, return the steaks and any accumulated juices to the skillet and baste with the sauce. Serve immediately.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.