From late spring to early summer, when our winery garden is producing tender peas, Brian makes a delicate pasta sauce with them. It’s not worth making the pesto with starchy peas, so wait for that perfect cusp-of-summer moment. Serve this pasta as a first course, followed by Slow-Roasted King Salmon with Garden Herbs (page 110) or spring lamb chops. On another occasion, spread the pea pesto on crostini for an hors d’oeuvre.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　

Pea Pesto

3/4 cup shelled English peas (from about 3/4 pound fresh peas)

　　1 small clove garlic, smashed

　　1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

　　2 tablespoons freshly grated pecorino cheese, plus more for topping

　　Kosher salt

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 pound dried penne or other short pasta

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 cup shelled English peas (from about 1 pound fresh peas)

　　1/2 pound sugar snap peas, ends trimmed, halved crosswise

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

For the pea pesto: Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and blanch for 30 seconds, or a little longer if the peas are large. Drain and cool quickly in ice water, then drain again. Place the peas in a food processor with the garlic, mint, pecorino, and a pinch of salt. Pulse until well chopped. With the motor running, add the olive oil through the feed tube. Puree until the pesto is nearly but not completely smooth. A slightly coarse texture is pleasing.

　　

Step 2

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.

　　

Step 3

While the pasta cooks, warm the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the English peas and a pinch of salt. Sauté for about 2 minutes, then add 1/2 cup of the boiling pasta water. Simmer until the peas are almost tender, about 5 minutes, adding more hot pasta water if necessary. Add the sugar snap peas and sauté until they lose their raw taste, 1 to 2 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Set aside about 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Return it to the hot pot and add the braised peas, pea pesto, and several grinds of black pepper. Toss well, moistening with some of the reserved pasta water. Divide among 6 warm bowls. Top each portion with a little grated pecorino. Serve immediately.

　　

Step 5

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another medium- to full-bodied white wine.

　　The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook