Choose ripe, flavorful pears—juicy, but not soft or mushy. The flesh of the pear should just give to gentle pressure near the stem end. Comice and Bartlett are almost always good, but try others available in your area; Warren and Kiefer are two that I like.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 quart

　　6 to 8 ripe pears (about 3 pounds)

　　1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　1/3 cup sugar

　　1 egg white

　　

Step 1

Working with one pear at a time, quarter, core, and peel: 6 to 8 ripe pears (about 3 pounds).

　　

Step 2

As each pear is prepared, cut the quarters into rough slices, about 1/2 inch thick. Put the slices in a stainless-steel or other nonreactive bowl. Immediately squeeze into the bowl through a fine strainer: 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice.

　　

Step 3

Add: 1 tablespoon sugar.

　　

Step 4

Toss the fruit to coat with the sugar and lemon juice. This prevents the fruit from browning as you work. Continue with the rest of the pears, tossing them in the lemon juice and sugar as you go. When all the pears are done, add: 1/3 cup sugar, 1 egg white.

　　

Step 5

Purée the pear mixture in a food processor or blender until smooth. Taste and correct the seasoning with lemon juice or sugar. You should be able to taste both sweet and tart. Freeze right away in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Any delay before freezing will allow the mixture to turn brown.

　　

Variation

Step 6

Add a teaspoon or two of Armagnac, Cognac, or Poire William to the mixture before freezing; don’t add more than that or the sherbet will not freeze properly.

　　The Art of Simple Food