A Charleston classic, pirlou (aka purloo or pilau) is an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink rice pilaf that is the lowcountry contribution to the family of rice dishes, including jambalaya and gumbo, hailing from the rice-growing regions of the Southeast. Pirlous usually feature seafood of some kind—as you might expect, given their watery origins—but I like the way this simplified version showcases the grassy flavor of fresh field peas.
Ingredients
serves 4 to 64 slices thick-cut bacon (about 1/4 pound)
1 onion, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 garlic clove, smashed and minced
1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice (preferably Carolina Gold)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon Colman’s dry mustard
1/4 teaspoon hot paprika
Pinch of ground cayenne pepper or crushed red pepper flakes
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 large tomato, cored and chopped
1 pound shelled fresh or frozen field peas, such as lady peas, pink-eyes, purple hulls, or zippers
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or celery leaves, plus more for garnish
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Step 1
Cook the bacon in a saucepan over medium heat until crispy, then remove and drain on a brown paper bag. Add the onion and celery to the bacon fat and cook and stir until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to cook and stir for 1 minute longer. Stir in the rice, thyme, mustard, paprika, cayenne, and salt and black pepper to taste and cook and stir for about 3 minutes to coat the rice.
Step 2
Add the broth and tomato and stir to mix. Bring to a low boil and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked, about 20 minutes. The rice will be creamy, not fluffy and dry.
Step 3
While the rice is cooking, rinse and drain the peas, discarding any blemished peas or bits of pod. Place the peas in a saucepan with about 3 cups of water. Season with salt and black pepper and bring to a low boil. Simmer, stirring occasionally, skimming as needed, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the peas are tender. Drain and set aside to keep warm.
Step 4
Add the parsley and butter to the rice mixture and season with additional salt and black pepper, if necessary. Spoon the peas over the pirlou, sprinkle with the reserved bacon and more parsley, and serve.Reprinted with permission from Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen: Soulful, Traditional, Seasonal by Sara Foster. Copyright © 2011 by Sara Foster. Published by Random House. All Rights Reserved.Sara Foster is the owner of Foster's Market, the acclaimed gourmet take-out store/cafés in Durham and Chapel Hill, North Carolina, and the author of several cookbooks including The Foster's Market Cookbook, winner of the Best Cookbook Award from the Southeast Booksellers Association. She has appeared numerous times on Martha Stewart Living Television and NBC's Today show. She has also been featured in magazines such as More, House Beautiful, and Southern Living, and is featured regularly in Bon Appétit.










