There are two ways to get tender squid: a very quick sauté or a very long simmer. This simple yet impressive recipe uses the former method. We call for a Thai or serrano chile because they're easier to find here — try your local supermarket — than the small, thin Italian hot chiles.

　　Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 1 hr

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 first-course servings

　　1 lb cleaned squid, bodies and tentacles separated but kept intact

　　6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

　　1 (1 1/2-inch) fresh red or green Thai or serrano chile, halved crosswise

　　1/2 lb grape or cherry tomatoes, halved

　　1/3 cup dry white wine

　　1/2 cup raisins

　　1/4 cup drained bottled capers, rinsed, patted dry, and coarsely chopped

　　1/2 lb campanelle (small bell-shaped pasta) or fusilli pasta

　　1/2 cup loosely packed torn fresh basil leaves

　　1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

　　1 (1- by 1/2-inch) strip fresh lemon zest , finely chopped

　　

Step 1

If squid are large, halve ring of tentacles, then cut longer tentacles, if attached, crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Pull off flaps from squid bodies and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Cut bodies crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rings. Pat squid dry.

　　

Step 2

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté garlic and chile, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add squid and sauté, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes and wine and simmer, stirring, 2 minutes. Add raisins and capers and simmer, stirring, 30 seconds. Remove from heat.

　　

Step 3

Cook pasta in a 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup pasta cooking water, then drain pasta in a colander.

　　

Step 4

Add pasta to tomato mixture with 1/4 cup reserved cooking water and cook over moderately high heat, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in basil, pine nuts, zest, and salt and pepper to taste. If pasta looks dry, moisten with more cooking water.

　　

Step 5

Divide pasta among 4 plates, then drizzle each serving with some of remaining 3 tablespoons oil.