This is a dark pasta sauce served in much of Italy, made with stewed, shredded meat. I like to make it with duck legs, though you could use rabbit, pork—cut from the ribs or shoulder—or even the dark meat of a good chicken (hardest to find). The meat must first be braised in red wine or, even simpler, cooked in its own fat as I do here. That’s the only time-consuming part of the process, and it may be done a day or more in advance. (Refrigerate both meat and juices if you complete this step more than an hour or two before proceeding.) Sharp pecorino Romano is a better choice of cheese than Parmesan here, though chopped parsley also makes a good garnish.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 duck legs

　　1 medium onion, chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 1/2 cups dry red wine, like Barolo or Cabernet Sauvignon

　　One 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, drained and roughly chopped

　　1 pound cut pasta, such as penne

　　Freshly grated pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese or chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Trim the visible fat from the duck legs, then lay them, skin side down, in a 10-inch skillet with a lid. Turn the heat to medium and, when the duck begins to sizzle, turn the heat to low and cover. Cook undisturbed for about an hour (check once to make sure the legs aren’t burning), by which time the skin should be golden brown. Turn, then cook until the duck is very tender, at least 30 minutes more.

　　

Step 2

Remove the duck and set aside. Add the onion to the skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta and add salt.

　　

Step 3

Add the wine to the onion and raise the heat to high; cook until the liquid is reduced by about half, after about 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes along with some salt and pepper and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is saucy, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. (You can prepare the dish to this point and let sit for a few hours or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before reheating and proceeding.)

　　

Step 4

Meanwhile, shred the duck meat from the bone and add it to the sauce as it cooks. A few minutes after adding the tomatoes, cook the pasta.When it is tender but not mushy, drain it and serve it with the sauce, along with the cheese or parsley.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.