Behind the jubilant liquid tomato smile of pasta margherita lies an intellect of herbs and garlic. The one covering for the other is a seduction of sorts, an invitation that propriety prevents you from accepting too eagerly. Sprinkle your margherita with the crystalline sweetness of Fiore di Cervia, the fine salt from the balmy Adriatic flats south of Ravenna, and marvel as the tart-sweet play of tomato and pasta asserts itself. Ennobled by the salt’s fruity warmth, the sauce is freed of its ties to the herbs that first defined it. Eyes open, head borne aloft, your margherita is as beautiful in body as in spirit.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 small handfuls sel gris

　　12 ounces small pasta, such as farfalle or conchiglie

　　2 large ripe tomatoes (about 8 ounces each)

　　1 clove garlic, minced

　　1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　4 two-finger pinches Fiore di Cervia salt

　　Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to taste (optional)

　　

Step 1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the sel gris and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta, stir to separate the noodles, and allow the water to return to a boil. Reduce the heat so that the water boils gently and boil until the noodles are barely tender, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 2

While the pasta is cooking, remove the stem scar from the tomatoes with a small knife. Cut the tomatoes into thin slices, the slices into strips, and the strips into a fine dice. Combine the tomatoes and garlic in a pasta serving bowl.

　　

Step 3

When the pasta is done, drain it and shake off most of the water. Don’t worry if it is still a little wet. Toss the pasta with the tomatoes, basil, and oil. Serve, then finish with the remaining salt over the top and toss. Top with freshly grated cheese, if desired.

　　Salted