An inordinately rustic dish, it asks so little of the larder and the cook and gives up good, potent flavor. The Lucani are wont to add another crushed chile to the pasta at table or under a tree, as the case may be.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　3 ounces ricotta salata (aged, salted ricotta), grated

　　3 ounces aged pecorino, grated

　　6 ounces whole-milk ricotta

　　1 small, dried red chile pepper, crushed, or 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

　　Generous grindings of freshly cracked pepper

　　2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted

　　2 tablespoons olive oil

　　2/3 cup freshly made bread crumbs

　　16 ounces bucatini or other thick, string pasta

　　Fine sea salt

　　Olio santo (page 155)

　　

Step 1

In a medium bowl, combine the cheeses with the crushed chile, the pepper, and the fennel seeds, mixing the components well.

　　

Step 2

Over a medium flame, warm the oil in a small pan and sauté the crumbs, tossing them about.

　　

Step 3

Cook the pasta in boiling, sea-salted water to al dente, draining it but leaving it somewhat wet and reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Return the pasta to the still-warm cooking pot. Beat a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking water into the cheese mixture, thinning it a bit. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss it about, coating it well. Transfer the pasta to a warmed bowl and dust it with the crumbs. Each one can drop a few tears of olio santo over his own plate.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy