As a smart shopper, I like to outwit unsuspecting produce clerks who don’t know any better and mark down passion fruits that are ugly and deeply wrinkled, which actually indicates that they’re perfectly ripe and ready to use. I buy any and all, whether I need them right away or not, since the pulp freezes beautifully. You can find good-quality frozen passion fruit pulp in Latin markets as well (or see Resources, page 237). I like to add a drop or two of pure orange oil to augment the passion fruit flavor, but if unavailable, you can substitute a few swipes of freshly grated orange zest if you wish. To extract the pulp, cut each passion fruit in half at the equator and scoop the pulp and seeds into a nonreactive strainer set over a bowl. Use a flexible rubber spatula to press and extract as much as the precious pulp as possible, until the seeds look rather dry. You can freeze the fragrant pulp or use it right away. But save a few of the seeds to add back to the ice cream just after it’s churned.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 cups (750 ml)

　　1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh or frozen passion fruit pulp (from 6 to 8 fresh passion fruits)

　　1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

　　6 tablespoons (90 ml) whole milk

　　7 tablespoons (85 g) sugar

　　Pinch of salt

　　3 large egg yolks

　　A few drops pure orange oil, or grated zest of 1 small orange (optional)

　　Spoonful of passion fruit seeds (optional)

　　

Step 1

Mix together the passion fruit pulp and 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the cream in a large bowl. Set a mesh strainer over the bowl.

　　

Step 2

Warm the milk, sugar, salt, and the remaining 1/2 cup (125 ml) cream in a medium saucepan. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.

　　

Step 3

Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the passion fruit and cream mixture. Mix in a few drops of orange oil, if using, then stir until cool over an ice bath.

　　

Step 4

Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Add a spoonful of passion fruit seeds to the custard during the last few minutes of churning, if you wish.

　　The Perfect Scoop