When dried—as you will usually find them—pasillas are often called chile negro, or black chile. They are thin, small, shriveled, and very dark. They are also earthy and not especially hot, so they yield a rich, densely flavored sauce traditionally used with lamb, beef, and chicken. If you want some heat, soak a dried chipotle or two with the pasillas. If you can find fresh tomatillos, use them in place of the tomatoes. Slip off the papery husks and add a little water to the sauce.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 cup

　　3 to 5 pasilla chiles, at least 1 ounce, to taste

　　2 tablespoons lard or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

　　4 small tomatoes, cored and chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 garlic cloves, peeled

　　1/2 large white onion, peeled and chunked

　　

Step 1

Soak the pasillas in hot water to cover until they are quite soft, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, put the lard in a small saucepan over medium heat; a minute later, add the tomatoes, along with some salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Drain the chiles and reserve some of their soaking liquid. Remove their stems and seeds; tear each into several pieces as you do so. Combine in a blender with the tomatoes, garlic, onion, and a little of the soaking liquid. Puree, adding more liquid if necessary to allow the machine to do its work. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve warm or refrigerate.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.