When it finally occurred to me that custards didn’t have to be sweet, I went on a savory custard kick, and I’ve never looked back. Once you learn the technique and feel comfortable with this custard recipe, you can play around with other variations, by adding sliced prosciutto, asparagus, or mushrooms. Be sure to bake it in a pretty dish, such as an old French earthenware or enameled gratin, that will look nice at the table.

　　

Ingredients

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

　　1 3/4 cups whole milk

　　2/3 cup heavy cream

　　1 extra-large egg

　　1 extra-large egg yolk

　　1 1/4 cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

　　Kosher salt

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

　　

Step 2

Heat a medium pot over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, and when it foams, whisk in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and cook for about 5 minutes, being careful not to let the flour brown. Slowly pour in the milk and cream, whisking constantly to incorporate it. The butter and flour will seize up and get pasty at first. Continue whisking vigorously as you add the liquid, and the mixture will become smooth. Cook a few more minutes, until warm to the touch. Remove the pan from the heat.

　　

Step 3

Whisk the egg and egg yolk together in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle the eggs into the cream mixture, whisking continuously until combined. Stir in the cheese, and season with a heaping 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the mixture into an 8-by-6-inch (or equivalent) baking dish, and cover tightly with foil. Place the baking dish in a roasting pan, and add hot water to the pan until it comes halfway up the outside of the custard dish. Place the pan in the oven, and bake about 1 hour, until the pudding is just set.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)