My initial exposure to French cuisine was during my first trip to Europe. It was long before I would eat in any three-star restaurants, and that exposure—the best I could have asked for—came from sitting in cafés. I was a wide-eyed twenty-three-year-old (and I was told by a waiter not to practice my high school French on him). I remember beautiful, colorful plates of vegetables going past me. I soon learned it was the classic French presentation of crudités, an assortment of three or four salads served together. It was fresh, affordable, and very appetizing, and it was served all over the city. Once in a while I’ll run this as a special in my restaurant; then I’ll forget about it until I crave it again. Any one of these salads can stand on its own, but if you put them all together they make for an extraordinary meal. Marinated Lentil Salad with Creamy Goat Cheese and Ripe Tomatoes (p. 113) would be a welcome addition to the mix.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　

Roasted Red or Golden Beet Salad: (Roasted Beets)

1 bunch baby beets (6 or 7), or 1 bunch regular beets (3 or 4)

　　Olive oil, as needed

　　Dressing

　　

Dressing for Roasted Red

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

　　1 teaspoon raspberry vinegar

　　1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　Salt and pepper, to taste

　　

Dressing for Golden Beets

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

　　2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or pear vinegar

　　3 tablespoons olive oil, pure or extra-virgin

　　Salt and pepper, to taste

　　

Celery Root Remoulade

1/2 cup Basic Mayonnaise (p. 181)

　　1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard

　　2 cups grated or matchsticked celery root (see p. 105)

　　Salt and pepper

　　

Grated Carrots with Lemon and Walnut Oil

2 1/2 cups (about 1 pound) grated carrots

　　3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

　　2 tablespoons walnut oil

　　Salt, to taste

　　

Cucumber-Onion Salad

1 medium or 2 small cucumbers, peeled

　　1/2 small sweet onion, such as Vidalia, Walla Walla, or Texas 1015

　　1/4 cup sour cream or plain yogurt (low-fat is fine, but don’t use nonfat)

　　Dill sprigs, snipped

　　White wine vinegar, to taste

　　Salt and pepper

　　

Roasted Red or Golden Beet Salad: (Roasted Beets)

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

　　

Step 2

For baby beets, slice the tops off 1/2 inch above the stem and place on a baking pan. Toss beets with just enough olive oil to evenly coat; add a little water to the bottom of the pan. Cover and bake for about 25 minutes, then test the beets by inserting a paring knife into the center of one. The knife should slip out easily when you pick it up. If not, continue to cook for 5–10 more minutes. Cool, then rub the skins off with a paper towel.

　　

Step 3

For larger beets, slice off the tops 1/2 inch above the stem and roast on a baking pan in the oven without covering and without water for about 40 minutes. Test doneness in the same manner. When they are cool enough to handle, peel with a sharp paring knife.

　　

Step 4

Place sliced or diced beets in a bowl and toss to coat with dressing. Let marinate for 10 minutes. Serve the beets simply dressed or with sliced red onion, arugula or spinach, and crumbled goat cheese or shaved ricotta salata for a more substantial salad.

　　

Dressing for Red Beets

Step 5

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl.

　　

Dressing for Golden Beets

Step 6

Whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

　　

Celery Root Remoulade

Step 7

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and mustard.

　　

Step 8

There are generally two ways to prepare celery root for remoulade. Some people like it grated (in a food processor or by hand) and tossed raw with the dressing. But you can also use a Japanese mandolin to slice the celery root into matchsticks, and then blanch them. The grated way is good raw, because I think it gets a little moister. The blanched matchsticks are appealing because the cooking process brings out the flavor more. If you choose to blanch the root, cover the matchsticks with acidulated water (water with the juice of 1 lemon and a pinch of salt) as you do your slicing, to avoid discoloration. When you’re done slicing, place the matchsticks and the water over high heat, bring to a boil, then drain. Rinse them briefly with cold water, then dry thoroughly. When cool, toss the celery root with the dressing and season with salt and pepper.

　　

Grated Carrots with Lemon and Walnut Oil

Step 9

Toss the carrots, lemon juice, and walnut oil together in a bowl. Season with salt. Taste, adding more lemon juice or salt as needed.

　　

Cucumber-Onion Salad

Step 10

Split the cucumbers in half and use a melon baller or teaspoon to scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice cucumber and place in a medium bowl with the onion, sour cream, dill, and vinegar. Use a rubber spatula to combine well. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and add salt or vinegar, as needed.

　　Cooks' Note

　　All these salads can be prepped several hours in advance. In the spirit of Paris bistros, serve with a crusty baguette and a chilled glass of Provençale rosé.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.