I love the rich and “wild” taste of quail. I’m not alone: because the flavor is appealingly gamey (but not as liver-y as squab), it’s one of the most popular and accessible game birds on the menu. At Bayona, I use Mississippi bobwhite quail, which is particularly plump and tender, but any variety will work in this recipe. When marinated and grilled, quail makes for the ultimate finger food. But the birds become sexy and sophisticated when paired with a lovely red wine sauce, plumped tart cherries, and sautéed spinach. Add a wedge of crispy polenta or some herb-roasted potatoes and you have a sweet and savory main course.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 cup pinot noir

　　1/4 cup dried sour cherries

　　2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

　　1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or raspberry vinegar

　　2 cups Chicken Stock (p. 206), or stock made from quail bones

　　1 tablespoon red currant jelly

　　3 tablespoons butter, softened

　　Salt

　　8 quail, partially boned

　　Pepper

　　2 tablespoons olive or canola oil

　　1 (10-ounce) bag spinach, or 2 bunches, washed and dried

　　

Step 1

Heat the pinot noir, cherries, shallots, and vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup. Whisk in the currant jelly, then whisk in 1 tablespoon butter. Season to taste with salt. The sauce should be pleasantly fruity, not too sweet, and slightly viscous, with a nice sheen. Keep it warm while cooking the quail.

　　

Step 2

Season the quail with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, then add half the quail, breast side down.

　　

Step 3

Cook about 4 minutes, then turn and cook about 4 minutes on the underside. Maintain a lively heat and keep a little space between the quail so they do not start to steam: you want the skin golden brown and a little crispy. Heat the remaining olive oil and repeat with remaining quail.

　　

Step 4

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and a pinch of salt and cook until just wilted, 2–3 minutes. Squeeze the spinach with tongs to remove excess moisture and divide it among four plates. Place 2 quail on each bed of spinach and spoon the warm sauce over the quail.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.