This, to me, is the essence of French home cooking: a simple sauté and flavorful pan sauce made with vinegar, mustard, and tarragon (the quintessential French herb). If you can’t find fresh tarragon, you can use tarragon vinegar instead and finish the dish with chives, but it’s just better with fresh tarragon. For the best results be sure to use a flavorful Chicken Stock (p. 206). If yours tastes a little weak, start with two cups instead of one (as called for below) and let it reduce longer to concentrate the flavor.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　4 chicken breasts (about 6 ounces each), with or without skin, as preferred

　　Salt and pepper

　　2 tablespoons canola or olive oil

　　1 cup Chicken Stock (p. 206)

　　6 tablespoons apple cider or wine vinegar

　　2 tablespoons butter, softened

　　2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

　　2 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh tarragon leaves

　　2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives, optional

　　

Step 1

Preheat oven to 325°F.

　　

Step 2

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and when it is almost smoking, add the chicken breasts, skin side down. Lower the heat to medium and cook the breasts 6–7 minutes, then turn them (they should have an even, golden brown color) and continue cooking for about 5 more minutes. Rotate the skillet if the heat on your burner is uneven, so that you don’t get any dark or burned spots, and reduce the heat if the chicken seems to be browning too quickly. When the chicken is cooked, remove it to a platter and keep warm in the oven (don’t cover). Pour the excess grease from the pan and deglaze with the stock and vinegar, whisking to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Let the liquid bubble briskly in the pan, whisking, until it’s reduced to about 1/2 cup, then whisk in the butter, mustard, and tarragon.

　　

Step 3

The sauce should have a slightly creamy consistency If it’s too acidic, whisk in a little more butter or stock. Remove it from the heat and spoon over the warm chicken breasts. Sprinkle with chives, if desired.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.