Black drum is a terrific fish—meaty and satisfying but still delicate. It’s often compared to overfished grouper but is more flavorful and less tough, and its skin cooks up crisp and savory. If you can’t find drum, black cod (sablefish) from Alaska or wild striped bass is a good substitute.

　　

Ingredients

serves 2

　　1 pound black drum fillet, skin on

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 tablespoon expeller-pressed vegetable oil

　　3 fresh bay leaves, or another hearty herb like winter savory or a few sturdy sprigs of thyme

　　1 tablespoon unsalted butter

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

　　

Step 2

Rinse the fish and pat it dry. Leave the fillet whole and score it lengthwise on the skin side with a shallow 3- to 4-inch-long slit to minimize curling. Season it generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil, coating the pan. Lay the fish in the pan, skin side down, and cook it for about 3 minutes or until it is golden brown and releases easily with a spatula. Flip the fish, and tuck 2 of the bay leaves underneath and place the other one on top. Dot the top of the fillet with the butter, and after it melts, tilt the pan and use a spoon to baste the fish a few times with the fat and juices. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for about 4 minutes, until the fish is just done and the tip of a sharp knife left in the middle of the thickest part for a few seconds comes out warm to the touch. Transfer the fish to a warm platter, removing and discarding the bay leaves.

　　Cooking in the Moment