In the south near Cagliari, in the town of Sant’ Elena, is staged a September festival—a tribute to their patroness and a celebration of the vendemmia—the harvesting of the grapes. There are four ascendancies in the week’s pageantry. The ancestral dress of the townsfolk, the great, pendulous, ambered muscat grapes, called zibibbo, with which the whole, humble precinct is festooned, the wine pressed from their honeyed juices, and, finally, the luscious breads baked from zibibbi left to dry and crinkle in the sun. Though the bread is sweetened and ornamented with raisins, it is most compatible with game dishes such as fagiano arrosto alla Saverio di Nulvi, (page 240) or braises such as the cosciotto di maiale al coccio del pastore Sassarese (page 237). We ate pane di zibibbo in Sant’ Elena with the sweet, white flesh of a myrtle-roasted pig. The bread, still warm from the oven, or roasted over a wood fire, makes for a gorgeous fine pasto with a piece of young pecorino and a glass of moscato. I reserve the bread’s golden-crisped fringes for the baker.

　　

Ingredients

makes 2 loaves

　　1 package active dry yeast or 1 small cake fresh yeast

　　2 cups warm water

　　2 teaspoons dark brown sugar

　　6 cups all-purpose flour

　　1 tablespoon fine sea salt

　　1/4 cup dark honey (buckwheat, chestnut, etc.)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2/3 cup golden raisins, plumped in warm moscato or other sweet, ambered wine

　　2/3 cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

　　Fine semolina flour for turning out dough

　　

Step 1

In a large bowl, combine the yeast with 1 cup warm water, the dark brown sugar, and 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, stirring, giving the yeast a bit of stimulus from the sugar and flour. Set the bowl aside for 10 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Add the remaining flour, the sea salt, the honey, the olive oil, and the remaining cup of warm water, incorporating the components well. Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured work space and knead it for 8 to 10 minutes to a smooth resiliency. Work in the raisins and the almonds and knead another minute or two. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, covering it tightly with plastic wrap, permitting it to double its bulk—about 1 1/2 hours.

　　

Step 3

Cut the dough in two, covering the waiting piece with a damp kitchen towel while you work with the first. Using a wooden rolling pin or your hands, press the dough into a rough sort of rectangle—about 12 by 8 inches. Roll up the rectangle on its longer edge, forming a tight cylinder. Roll and stretch the cylinder into a rope of 16 to 18 inches in length and curve it into a semicircle. Using a razor blade or a small, very sharp knife, slash the two ends of the semicircle with 10 or 12 closely placed vertical cuts, each about 3 inches long, almost forming fringes.

　　

Step 4

Line metal baking tins with baker’s parchment and sprinkle the paper lightly with semolina. Position the loaves on the tins, covering them with clean kitchen towels and permitting them to rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until their bulk has doubled.

　　

Step 5

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees, with baking stones, if desired. If you are using baking stones, sprinkle the hot stones lightly with semolina before sliding the loaves onto them. Alternatively, place the loaves into the oven on the metal sheets.

　　

Step 6

Bake the breads for 35 minutes or until they are deeply golden and have formed a thick hard crust. The process of misting will help accomplish this (page 214). Transfer the loaves to a rack to cool thoroughly. At table, break rather than slice them.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy