In a good oyster stew, the oyster liquor is as important as the meat itself: the point is to surround the warm, barely cooked oysters with a rich, briny cream. Use only very fresh, tasty oysters; since the only other ingredients are cream and butter, the stew will only be as flavorful as the oysters themselves. Serve with a stack of crisp hot buttered toast.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　20 salty oysters, freshly shucked and liquor reserved, or 1 pint of the very best shucked oysters, with their liquor

　　1 1/2 cups heavy cream

　　4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

　　1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or more as needed depending on the saltiness of the oysters

　　Pinch of cayenne

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Strain the oysters, reserving the liquid. Heat the cream in a heavy nonreactive 2-quart pot to a low simmer over medium heat, being careful not to let it scorch. In the meantime, warm four small bowls, add 1 tablespoon of the butter to each bowl, and set them in a warm spot.

　　

Step 2

Season the cream with the salt, cayenne, and some black pepper. Add the oyster liquor and return to a simmer. Add the oysters and cook for 30 seconds, until they start to curl and are just heated through. Adjust the seasoning, and divide the oysters and sauce among the warm bowls.

　　Cooking in the Moment