Bluefish is remarkably delicious and versatile. It is wonderful on the grill, its fatty richness complemented by the flavor of wood smoke. That richness ("oiliness" to the minds of some) causes many people to shun bluefish and other similar ocean brethren. All I can say is, oh well, more for me. Here orange zest provides an acidic tang that helps to balance the flavors, and the slow, low heat of the smoldering wood cooks the fish without drying it out.

Ingredients

　　One 1 1/4-pound skin-on bluefish fillet, soaked in Fish Brine

　　Fish Brine

　　1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　Finely shredded zest of 1 orange

　　Remove the fish from the brine and pat it dry. Brush it with a mixture of the olive oil and orange zest. Place the fish, skin side down, on the grill away from the coals of a small fire. Add a few chunks of wood to the coals and cover the grill. For bluefish, I prefer a fruit or nut wood such as peach, pecan, apple, or cherry. Orange wood is also a fun choice. Close the air intake to just a sliver and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet and intensity of the fire. When the fish is cooked, it will have a beautiful rusty hue and the meat will flake under gentle pressure. Gently remove the filets to a platter and serve immediately. I like to remove the skin of bluefish and the underlying darkly colored bloodline just beneath it, as these can have strong flavors that some guests do not appreciate. It also helps to remove some of the toxins that are a concern with bluefish, as they tend to aggregate just under the skin.

　　Reprinted with permission from Where There's Smoke: Simple, Sustainable, Delicious Grilling by Barton Seaver. Copyright © 2013 by Barton Seaver. Photography by Katie Stoop. Published by Sterling Epicure, an imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.