We will not simply turn a blind eye to the contemporary version of the Old Fashioned—it was the first cocktail we were taught that used bitters. Somewhere between the 1890s and 1930s, what probably started out as an ornamental garnish of orange and cherry fell into the mixing glass and got muddled with sugar and bitters. We see evidence of this drink in Burke’s Complete Cocktail and Drinking Recipes from 1936, in which the fruit is muddled, whereas during the same period Old Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide continued to add the fruit after making the drink. More than likely it was a trick used during Prohibition to mask poor-quality booze that stuck with many and was passed down over the generations. Today, many look down on this version of the cocktail, mostly because of the use of commercial, artificial maraschino cherries. Many young cocktail enthusiasts may not have enjoyed this cocktail in its original form, so we offer this restoration for them.

　　

Ingredients

makes 1 drink

　　1 raw brown sugar cube

　　1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar

　　3 dashes Angostura bitters

　　2 orange half-wheels

　　4 brandied cherries (see page 36)

　　2 lemon twists

　　2 splashes club soda

　　2 1/2 ounces Rittenhouse 100-proof rye whiskey

　　

Step 1

Muddle the sugars, bitters, 1 orange half-wheel, 3 of the cherries, and 1 lemon twist in the bottom of a rocks glass. Discard the orange and lemon skins. Add a splash of the club soda. Fill up the glass with large cold ice cubes. Carefully pour the whiskey on top. Finish with another splash of club soda and garnish with the remaining orange half-wheel, brandied cherry, and lemon twist.

　　

tasting notes

Step 2

Dominant Flavors: rye whiskey and citrus on the nose

　　

Step 3

Body: rich with fruit debris, high alcohol

　　

Step 4

Dryness: dry to medium

　　

Step 5

Complexity: low

　　

Step 6

Accentuating or Contrasting Flavors: bitters working against citrus

　　

Step 7

Finish: short with sweet oak and citrus oil overtones

　　

Step 8

Glass: rocks

　　Reprinted with permission from Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined by Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric, © 2010 Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.