An inspiration from Tadashi Ono, a talented Japanese chef now living in the United States. Succulent beyond belief and a most refreshing and appetizing starter. Most octopus sold in this country is frozen, which is not necessarily a bad thing. But if you can find fresh, sweet-smelling specimens, by all means use them. In either case, have the fishmonger clean the octopus. (Or do it yourself, by inverting the head and discarding its contents.)

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 or more servings

　　About 2 pounds cleaned octopus

　　About 3 cups extra virgin olive oil

　　12 garlic cloves, peeled

　　2 small dried chiles

　　5 fresh thyme branches

　　Large pinch of salt

　　2 tablespoons soy sauce

　　2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

　　

Step 1

Wash the octopus well. Put it in a saucepan and add olive oil to cover, the garlic, chiles, thyme, and salt. Bring to a very slow simmer over medium-high heat (if you have a thermometer, the ideal temperature is about 190°F). Adjust the heat to maintain this slow simmer and cook until the octopus is tender, an hour or more (check with the point of a sharp knife).

　　

Step 2

Transfer the garlic and octopus to a platter and discard the chiles, thyme, and oil or reserve the oil for another use, like sautéing fish or other seafood. Serve warm or cool, drizzled with soy sauce and lime juice.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.