When I see the river rise and hear the birds sing, I think of my late dear friend Charlie Jacobs and his tune “Rhythm of Spring.” His association between native produce and more innocent days elevates the memory of spring smells to a sort of romance. He beguiles us. And he tells us that from our soil comes the ingredient we need to find meaning. When I make this soup in the first cool days of spring, I’ll serve it warm, and when the days begin to lengthen and turn warm, I like to serve it cool.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8

　　3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　4 spring onions, white and green parts, sliced

　　2 cups (1/2-inch) diced red new potatoes

　　6 cups chicken broth

　　1 cup crème fraîche

　　Salt and ground white pepper

　　

Step 1

In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter and add the onions. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until the green tops are tender. Add the potatoes and broth, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 25 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

　　

Step 2

Add a little of the warm soup to the crème fraîche, then stir the whole mixture into the soup. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Transfer to a storage container and let cool. Serve warm or chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and serve cold.

　　

Notes

Step 3

Serve in teacups with a sprinkling of your favorite fresh herbs.

　　

Step 4

If a smooth texture is desired, puree the soup while warm.

　　A Southerly Course