Most cookware stores carry baker's peels (wooden, paddle-like implements used to slide pizza into ovens) and pizza stones; these tools make it easy to create a crust with character, but good crusts also require a very hot oven. In our experience, the most common flaw in home-made pizza is mozzarella overdose: Too much of it smothers the rest of the pie, causing what's below to steam into softness. The following pie is made without any mozzarella at all. Needless to say, the roster of toppings is flexible.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 2 as an entrèe or 4 as an hors d'oeuvre

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　1 cup warm water

　　a 1/4-ounce package (2 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast

　　2 to 2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

　　2 teaspoons salt

　　3 large garlic cloves, minced

　　1/4 cup olive oil

　　cornmeal for sprinkling baker's peel

　　12 littleneck clams, schucked, reserving liquor

　　1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

　　2 tablespoons freshly grated Romano cheese

　　

Step 1

1. In a small bowl dissolve sugar in 1/4 cup water. Sprinkle yeast over water and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

　　

Step 2

2. In a large bowl stir together 2 cups flour, remaining 3/4 cup water, salt, and yeast mixture.

　　

Step 3

3. Transfer dough to a floured surface and clean and oil large bowl.

　　

Step 4

4. Knead dough vigorously, incorporating as much of remaining 3/4 cup flour as necessary to create a silky dough, a full 15 minutes.

　　

Step 5

5. Transfer dough to prepared bowl, turning to coat slightly with oil, and cover bowl with 2 tight layers of plastic wrap. Let dough rise in a warm place 2 to 3 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

　　

Step 6

6. While dough is rising, in a small bowl combine garlic and oil and chill, covered.

　　

Step 7

7. Punch down dough and flatten on a lightly floured surface. Pounding with heel of hand and lifting, stretch dough carefully and work into a round about 15 inches in diameter (or into 2 smaller rounds).

　　

Step 8

8. Put pizza stone on bottom shelf of oven and preheat oven to 500°F.

　　

Step 9

9. Sprinkle baker's peel with cornmeal and slide dough onto it. Cover dough with a kitchen towel and let it rest, covered with the kitchen towel, about 15 minutes. While dough is resting, let garlic oil come to room temperature.

　　

Step 10

10. Brush dough evenly with garlic oil, leaving a 1/2-inch border untouched. Arrange clams with a dash of reserved liquor over garlic oil and sprinkle with oregano and Romano.

　　

Step 11

11. Shake and slide pizza off baker's peel onto pizza stone in oven. Reduce oven temperature to 450°F. and bake pizza 15 minutes, or until crust is medium brown.

　　

Step 12

12. Serve pizza immediately with plenty of napkins. Serves 2 as an entrée or 4 as an hors d'oeuvre.