Hamburgers reign supreme in the annals of American food, indeed in the annals of fast food around the world. Establishments that proffer them have made incursions into seemingly unlikely places to the extent that it is hardly surprising to see hamburgers on menus almost anywhere from Paris to Beijing. In fact, the humble beef patties have become such big business that there’s just no stopping them. And what is this icon of American enterprise? The answer is simple: it’s ground beef seasoned with salt. In other words, hamburger is quintessential sausage, and people love it. So do I. In fact, hamburgers-for-dinner is one of my default meals. For my house hamburger, I choose organic, pasture-raised beef, which, though slightly more expensive, is definitely tastier and more healthful than average ground beef. I lightly season the meat with salt and chill it for a few hours to let the salt do its work tenderizing the meat and making it more succulent. The Dijon mayo, pickled onions, and crunchy lettuce are fundamental, as are the artisanal buns, my favorite being ciabatta buns. Where are the tomatoes? I left them by the wayside in the development of my house hamburger. Their acid element and red color is supplied by the pickled onions. But, sometimes I add sliced heirloom tomatoes if it’s tomato season, or perhaps a splash of ketchup on one side of the bun. A hamburger is, after all, a personal thing, subject to whims of the moment.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　

Hamburgers

2 1/2 pounds best-quality ground beef

　　1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　

Mayonnaise

1 large egg

　　2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

　　1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　1/2 cup peanut oil

　　

Pickled Onions

1 large red onion, sliced into thin rounds

　　1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

　　2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

　　2 tablespoons water

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　Extra virgin olive oil, if cooking in a skillet

　　6 mini ciabatta or other buns, split

　　3 cups shredded romaine lettuce leaves

　　

Step 1

Place the beef in a medium bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and lightly mix with your hands until thoroughly blended. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to overnight.

　　

Step 2

To make the mayonnaise, in a food processor, combine the egg, mustard, lemon juice, and salt and process until thoroughly blended. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oils to make a thick emulsion. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use or for up to 5 days.

　　

Step 3

To make the pickled onions, toss together the onions and salt in a medium bowl. Combine the vinegar, water, and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot mixture over the onions, stir well, and set aside for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

　　

Step 4

To cook the burgers, prepare a medium-hot grill or film a large, heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, with oil and place over medium-high heat. Divide the ground beef into 6 equal portions, and form each portion into a patty about 1/2 inch thick. Place the patties on the grill directly over the heat source or in the hot skillet. Cook, turning 2 or 3 times, until medium-rare, about 9 minutes, by either method, or until as done as you like.

　　

Step 5

Toast the ciabatta, cut sides down, on the grill or cut sides up in a toaster oven for 1 to 2 minutes until beginning to turn golden.

　　

Step 6

Sandwich a patty between bun halves and serve at once. Pass the mayonnaise, pickled onions, and lettuce on the side to be added as desired.

　　Sausage