The tahini-laced eggplant version of this dish is ubiquitous in Arab restaurants and homes across the United States. When I was growing up, we called it baba ghanoush, but I later learned that in the Arab world, baba ghanoush means a more citrusy eggplant salad. There, this dish of mashed vegetables with creamy tahini is more commonly called mutabbal, which means a dish that’s made tastier or more flavorful with spices. When people refer to mutabbal, the default vegetable is eggplant, but it actually can be made with just about any vegetable—including Swiss chard and beets.

　　With each variation, the preparation of the vegetable distinguishes the dish. In the case of eggplant, roasting makes it tastier, and I char mine for a smoky flavor. Most versions I taste today are too watered down and too garlicky—the smokiness of the cumin and charred eggplant in this version achieves the complexity I prefer.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 2 cups

　　2 large globe eggplants (about 2 pounds)

　　Olive oil, for rubbing eggplants, plus more for drizzling

　　¼ cup tahini

　　¼ cup lemon juice (about 2 lemons)

　　1 tsp. lemon zest

　　2 garlic cloves, minced

　　½ tsp. ground cumin

　　1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

　　Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

　　

For the garnish

1 tsp. pomegranate molasses (optional)

　　2 Tbsp. pomegranate seeds

　　1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley

　　

Step 1

Cook the eggplants directly on the burner of a gas stove or in the oven. On a gas stove, sear the eggplants directly over a medium-high flame. Rotate every 5 minutes, until the globes are completely blackened, about 15 minutes total. Alternately, preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the eggplants on a sheet tray, poke them all over with the tines of a fork, rub them with the oil, and place the tray in the oven and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the eggplants collapse in on themselves and the skins are blackened.

　　

Step 2

Place the cooked eggplants in a bowl and seal the bowl with plastic wrap to let the eggplants steam in their own juices.

　　

Step 3

In a medium bowl, combine the tahini, lemon juice and zest, garlic, cumin, salt, and pepper.

　　

Step 4

When the eggplants have cooled enough to touch, split them lengthwise. Using a spoon, scrape out the pulp, discarding the skins and stems. For a milder flavor, scrape the seeds off the strands of pulp.

　　

Step 5

Use a fork to mash the pulp into the tahini-garlic mix, creating a chunky dip. Adjust the salt to taste.

　　

Step 6

When ready to serve, scoop the eggplant mixture onto a serving plate. Use a spoon to create a well in the center and drizzle in the oil, then garnish with the molasses, pomegranate seeds, and parsley.

　　Cook’s note:

　　Mutabbal can be stored, ungarnished, in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

　　Reprinted with permission from Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora by Reem Assil. Copyright © 2022. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Buy the full book from Penguin Random House, Bookshop, or Amazon.