Ingredients

　　

Bland

Step 1

The best seasoning to bring out the flavor in mushrooms is marjoram. Add a generous dash to cooking mushrooms. No marjoram? Excuse me, have you got the thyme?

　　

Darkening, too dark

Step 2

If your mushrooms are dark and you don’t want them to mar a light-colored sauce, wipe them with a damp cloth, rub them with lemon juice, and store them in the refrigerator. Or steam them in milk or butter in the top of a double boiler for 20 minutes. Or, while cooking, add a few drops of lemon juice to the cooking liquid. (It is just about impossible to lighten mushrooms in a black iron skillet.)

　　

Shriveled

Step 3

Peel them with your fingers. Beneath every shriveled mushroom there lies a somewhat smaller smooth mushroom waiting to be found. (Use the peelings to flavor soups or sauces.)

　　

Too light

Step 4

Mushrooms will darken if cooked in butter in a black iron skillet over high heat.

　　

Too many

Step 5

Chop them and then cook very slowly over low heat until they are reduced by half or more. Now you have duxelle, a mushroom paste that stores well in the refrigerator. Use it where mushroom flavoring is required, for example, in sauces, soups, and stews.

　　How to Repair Food, Third Edition