Although the morels add a woodsy intensity to the flavor of the consommé, they are not essential. You can substitute other dried exotic mushrooms or eliminate them altogether and simply float a thin slice of fresh white mushroom on the soup right before covering the bowl with the pastry.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6

　　

For mushroom consommé

2 pounds fresh white mushrooms, chopped fine (preferably in a food processor)

　　2 onions, chopped

　　2 quarts cold water

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　

For morels

1 1/2 cups boiling water

　　3/4 ounce dried morels* (about 1 cup)

　　3/4 cup Sercial Madeira

　　2 tablespoons 1-inch pieces fresh chives

　　

For pastry "hats"

a 17 1/4-ounce package frozen puff pastry sheets (2 pastry sheets), thawed

　　an egg wash made by beating 1 large egg with 1 teaspoon water

　　*available at specialty foods shops and by mail order

　　

Make mushroom consommé:

Step 1

In a 6-quart stockpot or kettle combine consommé ingredients and simmer, uncovered, 2 hours. Pour consommé through a large fine sieve lined with a rinsed and squeezed paper towel into a large saucepan, pressing gently on solids, to yield about 5 cups consommé (if yield is not enough, add water to make 5 cups; if too much, boil consommé until reduced to 5 cups). Season consommé with salt and pepper.

　　

Prepare morels while consommé is simmering:

Step 2

In a small bowl pour boiling water over morels and let stand 20 minutes, or until morels are soft. Remove morels, reserving soaking liquid, and in a small saucepan simmer morels in Madeira, covered, 5 minutes. Add morel mixture to consommé. Let reserved soaking liquid settle and slowly pour it into consommé, being careful to leave last tablespoon (containing sediment) in bowl. Simmer consommé, covered, 3 minutes and cool to room temperature. Consommé may be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered. Bring consommé to room temperature before proceeding.

　　

Step 3

Preheat oven to 400°F. and have ready six 12-ounce "truffle soup bowls" or 9- to 10-ounce ovenproof ramekins, each measuring 3 1/2 to 4 inches across top. Divide consommé, including morels, and chives among bowls or ramekins.

　　

Prepare pastry "hats":

Step 4

On a lightly floured surface roll out 1 sheet puff pastry into a 12-cinch square and with a round cutter at least 3/4-inch larger than diameter of bowls cut out 4 rounds. Roll out second puff-pastry sheet and cut out 2 more rounds in same manner. Brush any excess flour from both sides of rounds.

　　

Step 5

Working with 1 pastry round at a time, brush a 1/2-inch-wide border of egg wash around pastry edges and invert pastry rounds over bowls or ramekins, carefully stretching 1/2 inch down side and pressing to seal.

　　

Step 6

When all bowls or ramekins are covered with pastry, brush tops with remaining egg wash. Pastry-covered consommé may be prepared up to this point 4 hours ahead and chilled. (Pastry will not rise quite as high when going straight from refrigerator to oven.) Arrange bowls or ramekins on a large baking sheet and bake consommé in middle of oven until pastry "hats" are puffed and golden, 12 to 18 minutes.