Season: Late August to October. It always amazes me just how much fruit a gnarled old pear tree can bear in a good season. However, it’s still a little tricky to catch pears at their point of perfect ripeness–somewhere between bullet hard and soft and woolly. Never mind, should you find yourself with a boxful of underripe specimens, this recipe turns them into a preserve “pear excellence.” These pears are particularly delicious served with thick vanilla custard or used as a base for a winter fruit salad. Alternatively, try serving them with terrines and pâtés, or mix them with chicory leaves drizzled with a honey mustard dressing and crumbled blue cheese.

　　

Ingredients

makes two 32-ounce jars

　　2/3 cup granulated sugar

　　2 cups cider (dry, medium, or sweet)

　　3 pounds, 6 ounces small pears

　　Small handful of cloves

　　2 (2-inch) pieces of cinnamon stick

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

　　

Step 2

Start by making a cider syrup: mix the sugar with 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons of water in a pan and bring slowly to a boil to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, add the cider, cover, and keep warm.

　　

Step 3

Peel the pears, keeping the stems attached. As you do so, place them in a bowl of lightly salted water to stop them from browning. When all the pears are peeled, cut them in half and stud each half with a clove or two. Pack them into warm, sterilized jars (see p. 152), adding a piece of cinnamon to each. Pears are very bottom-heavy, of course, and I find the best way to pack them is head to toe.

　　

Step 4

Bring the cider syrup to a boil and pour over the pears. Cover the jars with lids, but do not fasten the clips or put on the screw-bands. Place the jars 2 inches apart, in the oven for 1 hour (see p. 158).

　　

Step 5

Remove the jars, seal with the screw-bands or clips immediately, and place on a wooden surface, newspaper, or folded cloth. Leave undisturbed until completely cool, and check the seal the following day (see p. 158). Use within 1 year.

　　

VARIATION

Step 6

Try replacing the cider with red wine, and add a star anise to each jar if you like.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.