Lamb shanks lend themselves to slow cooking, so I like to make this hearty dish-in-one on a weekend and then have it later in the week in a second incarnation. Shanks are often found two to a package in the supermarket, so it’s less hassle to buy the whole package and enjoy them twice. I’ve adapted this recipe from Claudia Roden, who taught me always to have a jar of my own preserved lemons in the fridge to give that final spark to so many Middle Eastern and North African dishes, and I’ve followed her advice.

　　

Ingredients

2 teaspoons olive oil

　　1 small onion, chopped

　　1 fat garlic clove, peeled and slivered

　　1 slice fresh ginger, about the size of a 25-cent piece

　　1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

　　2 lamb shanks

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper

　　3 or 4 small new potatoes

　　1/2 cup fresh peas or frozen, defrosted

　　2 strips Preserved Lemon (page 241), pulp scraped off and peel julienned

　　3 or 4 green olives, pitted and quartered

　　About 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and cilantro, if you have it

　　

Step 1

Heat the oil in a small heavy pot or skillet, and stir in the onion, garlic, ginger, and saffron; then lay in the lamb shanks. Cook for about 5 minutes over low heat, stirring frequently and turning the shanks over. Pour in enough water to cover, and sprinkle with about 1/2 teaspoon salt and several grindings of pepper. Cover, and continue to cook over low heat for 1 1/2–2 hours, until the shanks are very tender; check the level of liquid, and add more water if necessary so that it just covers the shanks. Add the potatoes, and simmer for 20 minutes; then add the peas, preserved lemon, and olives, and cook another 4 or 5 minutes. Fish out one of the shanks and the potatoes, and place on a warm plate; then, with a fine-mesh scoop, pick up all the peas and seasonings and scatter them over the meat. Pour on some of the cooking sauce (you’ll only use about half of it), and sprinkle the parsley and cilantro on top.

　　

Variations

Step 2

I’ve used lima beans instead of peas, as well as a handful of fava beans, when I have them in the garden; both take a little longer to cook than the peas, so allow for that. If you don’t have preserved lemon, either store-bought or homemade, use a couple of slivers of fresh lemon peel, finely julienned. And don’t worry if you don’t have fresh cilantro—parsley alone is fine. Be sure to save the rest of the cooking sauce.

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.