A taverna standard, saganaki (fried cheese slices) is named for the two-handled pan it's cooked in. Here, the cheese is melted to make a sauce for fish. Chef Costas Spiliades uses a medium-textured feta, such as Mt. Vikos or Dodoni brands, for this dish. He also uses a Greek Chardonnay, Katsaros, which is sold at some U.S. wine shops.

　　Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　1 small fennel bulb (sometimes called anise) with fronds

　　1 (4- to 5-inch-long) fresh red chile, chopped, including seeds

　　2 scallions, finely chopped

　　1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　2/3 cup Chardonnay or other dry white wine

　　8 (1/4-lb) pieces monkfish fillet (about 1 1/2 inches thick), trimmed of all membranes

　　1/4 lb feta (preferably Greek), crumbled

　　

Step 1

Cut stalks from fennel bulb and reserve 4 fronds for garnish, then discard stalks. Halve bulb lengthwise, core, and thinly slice crosswise.

　　

Step 2

Sauté fennel, chile, and scallions in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until fennel begins to soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Add wine and bring to a boil.

　　

Step 3

Season fish with salt and pepper and add to fennel mixture. Cook, covered, over high heat until fish is just cooked through, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove lid and sprinkle feta over fish and cooking liquid, then cook, swirling skillet frequently, just until cheese is melted and sauce is creamy, 1 to 2 minutes (do not let boil). Serve fish immediately, with sauce spooned over it. Garnish with fennel fronds.