Greens are a direct part of African-Amercans' African heritage. Dishes using leafy greens abound in the cooking of the African Atlantic world. They turn up as a couve in Brazil, as a callaloo in the Caribbean, as sauce feuilles in French-speaking West Africa, and simply as greens in the southern United States. The African-American twist with greens is in the manner of cooking. We cook 'em long and slow —down to the proverbial "low gravy"— (but then again that was the way all vegetables were cooked in much of the past). The real innovation is in the eating: We savor not only the greens but also their cooking liquid or "pot likker," a rich source of vitamins and iron.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 6 servings

　　4 pounds mixed collard, mustard, and turnip greens

　　8 strips bacon

　　6 cups water

　　Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

　　Hot sauce (optional)

　　Chopped onions (optional)

　　Vinegar (optional)

　　

Step 1

Wash the greens well, picking them over to remove any brown spots or blemishes. Drain well. Discard the discolored outer leaves and cut out the thick ribs. Tear the greens into pieces. Place the bacon strips in a large heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat until it is translucent and the bottom of the pot is coated with the rendered bacon fat. Add the greens and the water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook until the greens are tender, about 2 hours. Add the seasonings and serve hot.

　　

Step 2

Traditionally, greens are accompanied by a hot sauce, chopped onions, and vinegar. In some parts of the South, cooks add a pinch of sugar to the greens to take away a bit of their bite.

　　The Welcome Table: African-American Heritage CookingReprinted by permission of Fireside/Simon & Schuster, Inc. (©1994)