Shirley Phillips was raised on Hooper Island, Maryland, in Chesapeake Bay, and grew up surrounded by the finest seafood imaginable. Given her upbringing, it's no surprising that she married a waterman, Brice Phillips. The couple made their way to Ocean City, Maryland, and opened a crab shack, selling "jimmies" — heavy, fat, perfectly seasoned crabs — to tourists and locals alike.

　　Almost fifty years later, that roadside crab shack has evolved into one of the largest seafood operations in America, Phillips foods. Miss Shirley is still a part of the daily operation of her signature Ocean City restaurant, which serves thousands of crab cakes every season. According to Shirley, the secret to a good crab cake is good crab, lots of lumps, and simple seasoning.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6

　　2 eggs

　　2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

　　2 teaspoons lemon juice

　　2 teaspoons crab seasoning, such as Phillips' seafood seasoning

　　2 teaspoons dried parsley flakes

　　2 heaping tablespoons mayonnaise

　　1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

　　2 pounds jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over

　　4 slices white bread, crumbled

　　Vegetable oil, for frying

　　Soda crackers for serving

　　Tasty Tartar Sauce

　　

Step 1

In a medium-size bowl, thoroughly combine the eggs, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice crab seasoning, parsley, mayonnaise and mustards.

　　

Step 2

Place the crabmeat in a large bowl gently fold in the breadcrumbs and the egg mixture so as not to break up the lumps. Shape into 12 slightly flattened balls and chill for at least 1 hour.

　　

To fry the crab cakes:

Step 3

Pour oil into the skillet to a depth of about 1 1/2 inches. Heat the oil to 370° and fry the crab cakes, a couple at a time, until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove with a slotted spatula to paper towels to drain.

　　

To broil:

Step 4

Place crab cakes under a preheated broiler, turning to cook evenly, until nicely browned, 4 to 5 minutes per side.

　　

Step 5

Serve with soda crackers and tartar sauce.

　　Coastal Cooking with John Shields, by John Shields, Broadway Books