Miso is a common ingredient in vegan versions of cheesey recipes, because it helps make up for the sharp complexity that’s missing without any dairy products. I love cheese too much to ever leave it out, so why choose? Combining the two together, and adding mushrooms, makes for a powerfully flavored dish that packs a punch of umami. This is a light dinner for one that you can bulk up with a salad.

　　

Ingredients

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 ounces cremini, button, or other mushrooms, chopped (about 1 cup)

　　1 tablespoon unsalted butter

　　1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

　　1/4 cup whole or low-fat milk

　　2 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, grated (about 1/3 cup)

　　2 teaspoons white miso

　　2 ounces (about 3/4 cup dry) elbow macaroni, cooked and drained

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　3 tablespoons Japanese-style panko

　　

Step 1

Pour the oil into a small saucepan over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid and start to soften, about 5 minutes. Line a plate with paper towels, and use a slotted spoon to transfer the mushrooms to the plate. Pour off and discard the liquid and oil from the saucepan, and wipe it out.

　　

Step 2

In the same saucepan, melt the butter. When its foam subsides, whisk in the flour until smooth. Cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens a bit and the raw flour taste is gone, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the milk, cheese, and miso and stir until the cheese melts.

　　

Step 3

Add the macaroni and mushrooms, stir to thoroughly combine, and remove from the heat. Season generously with black pepper.

　　

Step 4

Preheat the broiler with the rack set 4- to 5 inches from the flame or element. Oil a small baking dish. Transfer the macaroni mixture to the prepared baking dish and sprinkle the panko crumbs on top. Broil until the panko crumbs have browned, 1 to 2 minutes.

　　

Step 5

Remove from the broiler, let cool slightly, spoon onto a plate, and eat.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.