A patently rustic treatment of the prawns that presses us to a dramatic sort of dance in front of the flame as we toss the fat, handsome things about in the hot oil, their briny perfumes dissolving up in great vapors around our heads. A bottle of fine Cognac perched on the kitchen shelf seems an occurrence as common in Rome as is the one filled with the simple white wine from the hills just outside its gates. Here, the bottle is used to a fine end, scenting the seething, sputtering flesh of the prawns inside their bronzed, vermilion shells.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1 1/2 pounds large prawns or medium langoustines, unshelled

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　Fine sea salt

　　1 cup dry white wine

　　1 cup Cognac

　　Juice of 1 large lemon

　　Freshly ground pepper

　　

Step 1

Rinse the prawns and dry them on absorbent paper towels.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil in a very large terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole and, over a lively flame, sauté the prawns, tossing them about in the oil until their shells turn angry red and are beautifully browned, 5 or 6 minutes. Salt them generously, adding the wine and the Cognac, letting the prawns drink in all the bubbling liquids for 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the size of the prawns.

　　

Step 3

Remove from the flame and give the prawns a benediction of lemon juice and generous grindings of pepper before presenting them, in their casserole, with jugs of cold white wine.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy