Chocolate and lemon make an age-old combination; the tartness of lemon enhances the acidity of the cacao bean and cuts the fatty mouth feel. Meyer lemons have a short window of availability, and they’re coveted for their lemony-orangey flavor—which is particularly good when paired with chocolate. They’re versatile, with as many uses in the savory kitchen as in the pastry kitchen.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8

　　

For the Earl Grey Fluid Gel

1 1/3 cups (320g) water

　　1 tablespoon Earl Grey tea leaves

　　1 1/2 teaspoons (3g) agar

　　

For the Meyer Lemon Custard

1 Meyer lemon

　　1 large egg

　　1 large egg yolk

　　5 tablespoons (62g) Vanilla Sugar (page 185)

　　1/2 cup (120g) heavy cream

　　

For the Tarts

1/2 recipe Spiced Chocolate Tart Dough (page 182)

　　

To Serve

Chocolate Crème Chiboust (page 263)

　　Confectioners’ sugar

　　Almond Praline Powder (page 216; optional)

　　Almond praline paste (optional)

　　

For the Earl Grey Fluid Gel

Step 1

Put the water and tea in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and infuse for 10 minutes. Strain, pressing on the solids, and measure; add water if necessary to make 1 1/4 cups. Refrigerate until cold.

　　

Step 2

Pour the tea into a blender and turn the blender on to low. Slowly sprinkle the agar into the vortex. When you’ve added all the agar, blend for 1 more minute.

　　

Step 3

Pour into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook at an active simmer for 5 minutes, then pour into a baking dish. Refrigerate until set and chilled, at least 2 hours.

　　

Step 4

Put the gel back in the blender and blend until smooth and fluid. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

　　

For the Meyer Lemon Custard

Step 5

Grate the zest from the lemon and put it in a blender. Cut off the peel and pith, cut the lemon in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds. Chop the lemon and put it into the blender with the egg, egg yolk, vanilla sugar, and cream. Blend until very smooth. Strain into a pitcher or measuring cup. Skim off the foam and refrigerate until needed.

　　

For the Tarts

Step 6

Roll the dough to 1/8 inch thick between two sheets of parchment. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Line a baking sheet with parchment.

　　

Step 8

Cut 3 1/2-inch rounds from the dough and line eight 2 1/4-inch tart rings with the dough, setting the rings on the sheet pan as you finish. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 9

Heat the oven to 375°F or 350°F on convection.

　　

Step 10

Trim the excess dough. Line the dough with parchment and fill with dried beans (or rice or pastry weights) and bake until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Let the pastry shells cool and remove the beans and parchment.

　　

Step 11

Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F (225°F if you’re using convection).

　　

Step 12

Pour the Meyer lemon custard into the tart shells. Bake until the custard is set, with just a slight jiggle in the center, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

　　

To Serve

Step 13

Use a 2 1/8-inch cutter to cut the chocolate crème chiboust into eight disks. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate.

　　

Step 14

Heat the oven to 400°F or 375°F on convection.

　　

Step 15

Set a chiboust disk on top of each tart. Bake until puffed, about 2 minutes.

　　

Step 16

Smear some Earl Grey gel onto a dessert plate. Dust a tart with confectioners’ sugar and place it on the gel. Garnish the plate with some praline powder and praline paste, if you want. Repeat for each serving.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__