My mom used to cook greens in such big batches that she would wash them on the rinse cycle in the washing machine. For her, a “mess” was a discrete unit of measurement equal to approximately one large grocery bag full. I think most Southerners operate under this assumption, at least as far as greens are concerned. It may seem like you’re starting out with far more greens than you’ll ever need, but keep in mind that they’ll cook down quite a bit. If they don’t all fit in the pan at first, start with as many as will fit and add to the pot as the greens cook down.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　2 tablespoons olive oil

　　2 ounces country ham, diced

　　4 bunches (about 4 pounds) mixed hardy greens, such as turnip greens, collards, mustard, and kale, washed and drained

　　1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

　　Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

　　Hot Pepper Vinegar (page 308), for serving

　　

Step 1

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until sizzling hot (see Know-how, page 100). Add the ham and cook until crispy around the edges.

　　

Step 2

Remove and discard the stems from the greens and tear the greens into large pieces. Add the greens to the ham and season with red pepper flakes and salt and black pepper to taste.

　　

Step 3

Add the broth and cover the pan. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the greens are tender. Check to make sure the greens don’t start to stick to the bottom of the pan; if they do, lower the heat and add a little more broth or water.

　　

Step 4

Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Drizzle with Hot Pepper Vinegar and serve warm.

　　

On the Side

Step 5

It should be illegal to serve Mess o’ Greens without Salt and Pepper Skillet Cornbread (page 57) or Creamy Cheese Grits (page 208) for sopping up the savory pot likker.

　　Reprinted with permission from Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen: Soulful, Traditional, Seasonal by Sara Foster. Copyright © 2011 by Sara Foster. Published by Random House. All Rights Reserved.Sara Foster is the owner of Foster's Market, the acclaimed gourmet take-out store/cafés in Durham and Chapel Hill, North Carolina, and the author of several cookbooks including The Foster's Market Cookbook, winner of the Best Cookbook Award from the Southeast Booksellers Association. She has appeared numerous times on Martha Stewart Living Television and NBC's Today show. She has also been featured in magazines such as More, House Beautiful, and Southern Living, and is featured regularly in Bon Appétit.