When chorizo crossed the Straits of Gibraltar from Spain to North Africa, the meat of it, pork, was swapped for lamb. The mostly Muslim North Africans don’t eat pork. The feisty essence of chorizo was not lost in the translation, however: the seasonings remained pretty much the same, with regional and personal variations, as always. A touch of cinnamon here, dried whole red chiles instead of milder ground paprika, maybe some cumin, maybe not, and always garlic. On either side of the straits, it’s a vivacious sausage to use in dishes that want definite sausage input. Here is the lamb version called merguez; for the pork version, see page 24.

　　

Ingredients

makes 1 1/2 pounds

　　1 1/2 pounds fatty ground lamb, not too finely ground

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　2 teaspoons ground cumin

　　2 teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika

　　Scant 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

　　1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

　　1 teaspoon ground coriander

　　1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　1/4 cup water

　　

Step 1

Place all the ingredients in a medium bowl, and knead with your hands until thoroughly blended. Leave in bulk and shape as directed in individual recipes or stuff into sheep casing. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or preferably overnight, to firm and blend the flavors.

　　

Step 2

Sauté or grill, or cook as directed in individual recipes. (The uncooked sausage will keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.)

　　Sausage