Cornbread was for many years the basic bread of the rural South, the very poor South. I mentioned earlier that cornbread and barbecue are close to being religion in the South. But, for years, cornbread was the primitive Baptist to the Episcopalian biscuit, the all-night tent revival to the ladies’ prayer luncheon. Cornmeal griddle cakes are the most basic of Southern breads. Biscuits require expensive dairy products, while cornmeal griddle cakes, also known as hoe cakes, can be made with little more than meal, a bit of oil, and water. The batter should be quite soupy, but not watery. When the batter hits the hot oil the edges sizzle and become very crisp. For best results, be sure to cook the cakes until the edges are a deep, rich, golden brown. Meme always served them as a very quick bread on the side. They are especially delicious when used to sop up juices and gravy.

　　

Ingredients

makes 12

　　2 cups white or yellow cornmeal

　　2 teaspoons baking powder

　　1 teaspoon fine sea salt

　　1 large egg, lightly beaten

　　1 cup water, plus more if needed

　　1/4 cup corn oil, for frying

　　

Step 1

To prepare the batter, in a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. In a second bowl or large liquid measuring cup, combine the egg and the 1 cup water. Whisk until smooth. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, using as few strokes as possible.

　　

Step 2

To fry the griddle cakes, heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Ladle 1/4 cup of batter onto the heated skillet. Repeat with additional batter, without crowding.

　　

Step 3

Cook the cakes until the bottoms are brown and bubbles form on the tops and edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and brown the other side, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

　　

storing dry ingredients

Step 4

To avoid insects in flour and cornmeal, transfer the product to a sealable airtight container immediately after purchase. To keep flour and cornmeal absolutely fresh, particularly if they are wholegrain (see page 202), store the sealed container in the refrigerator or freezer. Allow the flour or meal to come to room temperature before using.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.