When definitive heat is what you want in a dish, fresh chiles are what you add. But when you want to inject subtle spiciness and preserve the delicate nuances of a dish, this aromatic mixture is the solution. I grew up with this condiment on the family dinner table, where it sat in a small jar alongside dispensers of fish sauce, soy sauce, salt, and pepper. Its flavors are gentler than commercially produced chile sauces, which often overpower dishes with their vinegary taste. Slowly frying the garlic and chile melds their individual flavors, so that when you add a bit of this mixture to food, it doesn’t assault your palate with its boldness. It is particularly good with stir-fry dishes and certain noodle soups. There are different kinds of chile heat, and through practice and experimentation you will learn when to use them.

　　

Ingredients

makes 1/2 cup

　　6 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

　　1/4 cup finely chopped garlic

　　1/4 teaspoon dried red chile flakes

　　

Step 1

In a small saucepan (a butter warmer is ideal), combine the oil, garlic, and chile flakes over medium-low or low heat. Bring to a gentle simmer and let the mixture bubble and sizzle for 5 minutes, occasionally swirling the pan or stirring the mixture to ensure even cooking and watching carefully that it does not burn. The finished mixture will be a rich orange-red and have a pleasant toasty fragrance. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. The mixture will darken to a reddish brown as it cools.

　　

Step 2

Transfer the mixture to a small jar and keep it on the table for frequent use, or in the refrigerator for occasional use.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.