Brilliant orange pumpkinlike squash fill the vegetable stands of Morocco and most other Mediterranean countries every fall, and they show up in stews, couscous, pasta, and soups like this.You may find the same squash in the States, but butternut, acorn, or sugar pumpkin—pumpkin grown for flavor, not size—are perfect substitutes and easy enough to find. (Canned pumpkin is an acceptable if not ideal alternative; drain it well.) Make this up to a day in advance, reserving the cream and cilantro to add just before serving.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 butternut or acorn squash or sugar pumpkin, about 2 pounds

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　1 large onion, diced

　　1 large tomato, cored and chopped

　　2 cups cooked chickpeas (page 431) plus their liquid or one 14-ounce can, drained and liquid reserved

　　1 quart beef, chicken, or vegetable stock, preferably homemade (page 160 or 162), or water

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

　　2 tablespoons heavy cream, sour cream, or yogurt, optional

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the squash in half and put it in a casserole dish. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake until soft, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven, cool, and remove the seeds and strings. Scoop the pulp from the shell to a bowl.

　　

Step 2

While the squash is baking, melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat; add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until transparent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the squash, half the chickpeas along with their liquid, and the stock. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat.

　　

Step 3

Using an immersion or an upright blender or a food mill, puree the mixture until smooth. Add the remaining chickpeas, then season with salt and the peppers. Heat through just before serving, then garnish with the heavy cream if desired and cilantro.

　　

Laotian-Style Squash Soup

Step 4

Use coconut milk, homemade (page 584) or canned, in place of half of the stock. Omit the cream and stir 2 tablespoons fish sauce (see page 500) into the final pureed mixture. Garnish with cilantro and 1/4 cup minced scallion.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.