Whether you roast it freeform in the oven or bake it in a loaf pan, meat loaf is certainly an all-time favorite, as, in France, is its cousin the pâté. Since they are so closely related, I consider the one a variation of the other and here are two of my favorites.

　　

Ingredients

　　

Step 1

Beef and pork meat loaf. For a 2-quart loaf serving 12, sauté 2 cups of minced onions in 2 tablespoons of oil until tender and translucent, raise heat and brown lightly. Toss in a bowl with 1 cup fresh bread crumbs (page 46), 2 pounds ground beef chuck, 1 pound ground pork shoulder, 2 eggs, 1/2 cup beef broth, 2/3 cup grated cheddar cheese, 1 large clove puréed garlic, 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, 2 teaspoons each of thyme and paprika, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and oregano. To check seasoning, sauté a spoonful. Pack into a buttered 2-quart loaf pan and top with 2 imported bay leaves. Bake about 1 1/2 hours at 350°F until juices run almost clear yellow and loaf is lightly springy to the touch.

　　

Step 2

Serve hot with tomato sauce, page 30, or let cool and then chill.

　　

Variation

Step 3

FRENCH-STYLE COUNTRY PÂTÉ. For a 6-cup loaf pan serving 8 to 10. Sauté 2/3 cup minced onions in 2 tablespoons butter until tender and translucent. Blend with 1 1/4 pounds pork sausage meat, 3/4 pound ground chicken breast, 1/2 pound pork liver or beef liver, 1 cup fresh bread crumbs (see page 46), 1 egg, 1/3 cup goat cheese or cream cheese, 1 medium clove puréed garlic, 3 tablespoons cognac, 1 tablespoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon each ground allspice, thyme, imported bay, and pepper. Sauté a spoonful to check seasoning. Pack into a buttered loaf pan and cover with wax paper and foil. Set in a larger pan of boiling water and bake 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, until juices are almost pale yellow.

　　

Step 4

Let repose for an hour, then set a board or twin pan on top and a 5-pound weight (like canned goods). When cool, cover and chill. Let “cure” for a day or two before serving.

　　Julia's Kitchen WisdomKnopf